How to Start Painting Warhammer Minis Without Stress or Fancy Gear

You don't need to be a miniature Picasso to enjoy painting Warhammer, and you don't need a painful amount of money, 37 types of brushes or a weird lamp either. What matters is a simple plan, a few basic tools and a handful of easy techniques that can turn a pile of unpainted gray plastic into something you're proud of.

If you're anything like me, you've probably wandered into a game store or a convention and found yourself staring at a painting table. You see that guy carefully painting a tiny warrior like he's restoring the Mona Lisa, with a brush that's got fewer bristles than your toothbrush. He's surrounded by what looks like a wizard's lab: rows of tiny paint pots, mystery tools, magnifying glasses and a color wheel that requires a PhD to use. Then he posts a photo online with details on that tiny face that even AI couldn't have generated, and you're left thinking you just wanted to paint the cool little space guy and now you feel like you can't.

I Went From Finger Painter to Looking Forward to Painting Minis in a Few Months

I've been there, totally overwhelmed. But I'm living proof that it doesn't have to be so serious. When I started just a few months ago, way back in April, I was more finger painter than artist. Now painting minis is probably one of the more satisfying parts of my week. It's like a coloring book for grown ups, if your coloring book also carries a chainsaw.

So if you're staring at your gray plastic warriors and panicking, don't. This is about the easy, low stress way to make painting something you're proud of and maybe even look forward to, with your favorite podcast or Netflix show in the background. If you're after the fancy, flowery stuff, this isn't the place for you. Trust me, it's way less scary than it looks. Even that first chunky, gloopy Space Marine deserves a spot on the battlefield, and we'll get there one relaxed, probably wobbly brush stroke at a time.

Two to Four Main Colors Are Probably All a Mini Needs

You can do a ton with a brush, which I didn't know. There's highlighting, shading, dry brushing and edge highlights, which are like the Jedi art of painting only the sharp bits. There are even cool effects like battle damage. It does take a bit of practice, but so does tying your shoes. So before you start slapping colors on your tiny space warriors, take a breath and make a plan so you hopefully don't paint a mess.

Step one is picking a color palette. What vibe are you going for? If you're painting just one model, keep the color scheme simple but snazzy. Batman would be black and gray. A Star Wars stormtrooper is white and sadness. Iron Man is red and gold. If you're painting a whole squad or an army, think of it as a team uniform. You don't want your orcs looking like a clown convention, unless that's your aesthetic, in which case respect to you.

You probably only need two to four main colors for a mini to look brilliant. Yes, I said it, and I stand by it. If you like, add a pop of color, like a bright red or a neon green, just to make it stand out, and you're a designer.

Acrylics Are the Paints You'll Mostly Use

There are a lot of paint options and it's easy to get overwhelmed. When I first started, I was drowning in Citadel and everyone was complaining at me for it. There are three main types of paint. I've only ever used one, but I'll go through them all anyway.

Acrylics are about to become your new best friend. They're water based, beginner friendly and very fast drying, which is slightly annoying, and some come in really cool bold colors. You're going to mostly be using these. Think of them as the Pokémon of paint: you've probably got to catch them all.

Enamels are thicker and oil based, and they kind of smell like you're doing model airplane stuff in your grandpa's garage. They're great for specific effects but a bit advanced. I personally haven't tried them because I'm too scared. Watercolors are very thin and very tricky, the kind of paint that leaves you wondering why it just turned into a puddle. They're not very common in mini painting, but they can be fun if you're feeling brave. I've seen them recommended in a couple of tutorials, but I avoided them the minute I heard someone say they're very tricky.

Round, Detail and Dry Brushes Cover the Essentials

No, you can't use a brush that looks like it came from your primary school. You need to buy something relatively okay. Look for round brushes, which are great all rounders for base coats and details. Look for detail brushes, the very tiny tipped ones for eyes and emotional damage. Dry brushes are for that cool, dusty, battle worn look, kind of like giving your mini a post apocalyptic filter. Avoid stiff, scraggly bristle brushes. Using one is like using a mop to draw eyebrows, and it's never going to go well.

Fancy palettes are optional, but a functional palette is essential, so please don't overthink it. You just need a spot to mix your paints and thin them with water. I started off with a lid from one of my Chinese takeaways, it worked just fine, and I only replaced it when my dog chewed it. Do you need a fancy, expensive wet palette with a built in hydration system? Some people will argue yes. I say no. Use an old plate, a plastic lid like me, or even the back of a yogurt pot, and you're officially an artist.

If you eventually want a wet palette, they do keep your paints from drying out mid session, and I've heard they're very practical, so go for it. Just don't cave to the peer pressure. I haven't, and I'll do it when I'm ready. You're still winning with a plastic cup and a good attitude. In short: two to four main colors, a pop of color if you're feeling spicy, mostly acrylic paints because they're easy to use and easy to clean, and the essential brushes to start, upgrading later.

Base Coats and Washes Lay the Foundation

When it came to techniques, I tried to wing it and then realized I do need some. The goal is to make your mini look brilliant without having to summon Bob Ross. You've got your paints, your palette and a couple of brushes, and you're staring lovingly at your little space elf, orc or magic goblin, or in my case, Blood Angels. You don't need a fine art degree, just a few simple techniques, like learning painting at Hogwarts minus the toilet troll.

Step one is blocking it in with a base coat. This is the foundation of your mini, putting color everywhere so it doesn't look naked. Slap the base colors into every part of the model, like in I Love You, Man, and don't stress about perfection. This is my favorite part because you get to cover everything without worrying. Avoid painting around all the little details at this stage; you'll just stress yourself out and still end up painting over them later. If your mini is complicated, wearing capes or three belts or holding a tiny little bird, some people recommend sketching out the color plan on paper first. If you want to be that extreme, maybe give it a go.

Step two is washes, which are like instant shadows in a bottle. They're basically thinned down paint or special shade paints that settle into the cracks and crevices to make your model pop. Think of them as Instagram filters for your mini, adding depth, mood and drama with one swipe of a brush. Use a biggish brush, dunk it in, let the wash flow over your model and let gravity do the rest. A bonus is that it makes it look like you know what you're doing, even if you're just vibing with your brush.

Dry Brushing and Fake Shadows Add Depth With Minimal Effort

Dry brushing is the hack of mini painting. You barely use any paint, just enough to catch the raised edges, and your model looks awesome with about 10% of the effort. Get a dry brush that is literally dry; don't let it go anywhere near water. Dab on a tiny bit of paint, then wipe most of it off on a paper towel, or on your trousers if you're like me, until you think there's no paint left. Then lightly drag the brush across your model for highlights for days. Use it on armor, fur, weapons and anything textured.

Fake shadows are for when you don't want to spend your life blending shadows like a Renaissance artist. Just fake it till you paint it. Take a darker shade of your base color and use it in the folds: underarms, between armor plates, anywhere the sun doesn't shine in a PG way. It creates depth and realism with minimal effort and zero regrets, which is what we need as beginners. I believe it's probably best used on larger, flatter areas like cloaks and capes, and it also works really well on really big bug abdomens. I'm looking at you, Tyranids.

You're not aiming for perfection here. You're aiming for awesome at arm's length. Once that mini hits the tabletop surrounded by dice and dramatic voices, nobody's checking whether your edge highlights are perfectly smooth. I'm not going into advanced stuff like layering, glazing, wet blending or other wizard level techniques; this is purely beginner mode. Once you've got the basics down and feel more confident, there's a whole world of advanced techniques waiting. When I put this guide together, I hadn't even painted a character yet because I wasn't quite feeling ready, but I guess it's like unlocking new abilities in a video game. We'll get there when we get there.

Highlights, Pigments and Glitter Give a Mini Its Personality

There are a few finishing touches I think are worth mentioning. Highlights are your chef's kiss for lighting. Once your paint is dry, take a lighter version of the base color and gently brush it onto the raised parts of the model: edges, tips and cheekbones, if it has a face. Hopefully it doesn't, because I cry every time I see ones with faces. Highlights make everything look more 3D and catch the light like your mini is getting ready for a dramatic movie poster.

Extra washes are something we all need in Warhammer. If you've already used a wash and want your mini to look grittier, grimier and more lived in rather than clean and polished, hit it with a second wash, especially in the corners and recesses. It gives him or her some battle hardened street cred. Pigments are powdered paints you brush on once your model is dry. They're great for rust, ash and dirt, they're really easy, and I think they're super satisfying. Just don't sneeze mid application.

If you want to add sparkle or magic, glitter has your back. Use fine glitter for the best results. It works great on spell effects and enchanted weapons. I've used it a lot, though not on my Warhammer minis, and it gives the minis I've used it on an extra level of shine. Other accessories include stickers and decals, which are perfect for faction symbols, numbers or wall paint without the stress of hand painting, and stamps, which are great for textures like patterns on cloaks, banners and bases. Finishing touches aren't just about detail; they're about personality, whether your mini looks like a battle worn veteran or a sparkly spellcaster. If it looks cool to you, you've done it right.

Painting Minis Is About Progress, Not Perfection

If you've made it this far, you've survived the sea of paint bottles and faced down the brush aisle without panicking, and now you've got the tools to turn your gray plastic potato warriors into absolute legends. Maybe your first mini has lumpy highlights. Mine looks bad. Maybe your dry brushing turned into aggressive smudging, or your orc looks like he got caught on the wrong end of a glitter bomb. You're still cool. You painted a mini, and that's a win.

Painting isn't about perfection, and I'll keep saying it. It's about progress, personality and having a good time with a tiny plastic friend while Netflix plays and you accidentally dip your brush in your cup of tea. Try some weird colors. Add the unnecessary skull.

Which of these beginner techniques would you try first on your own minis?